August 29, 2006My 1956 Ford F-100 has me baffled when it comes to the driver's door -- getting it closed and locked. At the N/S Run, I finally closed and locked the door, climbed in from the passenger side and drove home. I have purchased and installed new door handles, latch assemblies and strikers. I have the door adjusted to where the dove tail just touches, the striker has been in 90 positions and I even cut the rubber in half in the tight areas to relieve tension. I slid ribbons through the closed door gasket and trimmed until they all pulled through without too much effort. I had it working in the garage, but driving down the road, I got a rattle. Out for a drive, the %^#& thing became difficult to close, and would not lock. The door is adjusted flush to the cab opening, but something is still amiss. Any hints?
September 12, 2006will be over there around the 21st and we will get it fixed for you.
September 12, 2006Thanks, I bought everything new -- handle, striker, mechanism.
September 12, 2006How bout that !! Utah to the rescue!! Good Show !! Hang on Steve!!
October 10, 2006Steve are your doors working properly now?
October 10, 2006Steve, I have the same problem as you. Mine started on the driver's side after I installed the weatherstripping. It was too thick and the door wouldn't shut. After several attempts of slamming the door, I gave up and removed the weatherstripping. I still get the rattle when I drive it. I adjusted everything but no go. I'd like to know what it is also. I'm looking for weatherstripping that is no more that 1/2 inch thick. That would work and maybe stop the rattle.
October 11, 2006No. Bill Lee came by and spent hours with me resetting the door in the opening, moving every part of the striker, latch assembly, etc. We took the "brand new" latch assembly out of the door only to discover upon close inspection that the face (mounting) plate is slightly warped and the latch assembly which catches the star wheel is not as rigid as it should be. In other words, sometimes the door latches completely, sometimes it doesn't. My original latch mechanism is worn out and can't be trusted to always secure the door in the closed position, but worked as well (poorly) as the new one. Bill Lee says he has never seen a door act the way this one does!
Hopefully the cure? Bill just sent me an original door mechanism, so I will give it a shot before the weekend, with a new handle, new striker and new shims, and see if that will work. I've got the door rubber perfect after cutting it down by 1/3 in the tight spots with an electric carving knife. May I suggest bear claw latches for your next project!
October 11, 200611 PM and the new (old) latch has been cleaned, oiled only where the locking mechanism hinges (left the 50 year old grease around the star) and did a test run. Spent another hour getting the striker to just touch the dove tail, then noticed the top bolt was now scraping the door paint. Thank goodness we drilled the door hinges as the door had to be moved forward to not rub the striker, even without a shim. Feels as if the bottom of the door needs to come out a tad. Getting closer, but not there yet.
October 12, 2006Geez Steve, this sounds like a lot of work, which should be an easy fix. I'm currently looking for weatherstripping that is 1/2 inch in height. That would be just about right, without forcing the heck out the door to close it. My door is slightly uneven on the top as well, but the striker,etc seems to lock the door fine. I have play in the door when it's shut, but am hoping the new weatherstripping will fix that. Anyone know where I can I purchase aftermarket weatherstipping?
October 12, 2006I was told to use the hollow core weather stripping instead of the solid stuff. I wish I would have known that before I put on the solid stuff. It's so hard to close my door.
October 12, 2006Ed if you looking for door rubber seals check out www.steelerubber.com
October 14, 2006Update. The door closes, two clicks on the locking mechanism even. The latest trick was to shim the lower hinge between it and the door. This moved the bottom of the door out a tiny bit, but it results in a closer rear gap. Another Bill Lee and Bobco trick. So now it closes securely and since I still have new rubber (that hasn't totally seated) I can set the door striker where it will push closed or I can move the striker in, which requires a gentle but firm shove. I'm doing the latter as this makes the door close tighter. Hope all of this helps other truckers with difficult closing or rattling doors!