March 23, 2005I have been doing lots of body work on my 75 chevy pickup. it is mainly surface rust but no matter what i do the rust keeps bleeding back through the primer. is their a product that i need to buy that fights rust? I am also using lots of filler and i was wondering if anybody new what was the best grit sandpaper to use and what are the steps that i should be following. I really wanna get my truck painted but the rust keeps holding me back. Any advice would be great. thanks
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March 24, 2005Yes there is and you can get it at Wal Mart. It's an encapsulator, it turns the rust black and seals it. It comes in a spray or brush on.They have it with the body fillers. Sand the surface clean then paint with this stuff and any rust will be sealed. Dries fast so you can paint right away.
March 24, 2005Do you sand it down after you spray it??? or its ok to paint over it??
March 24, 2005I'll go to wal-mart and pick up that stuff and i just talked to guys at a body shop and they said that my main problem is that i just spray primer on it and it absorbs the water so i bought some spraypaint to spray over the primer to help seal it. I'll see if all of this will work and thanks for the help.
December 3, 2005The most important thing to remember about filler is that it is meant for minor imperfections. Don't use filler to take the place of "manual" bodywork. When your're ready for your filler take DA sander and featheredge an area wide enough to spread. You want to spread your filler wider than the dent so when you sand your cover the dent completely. start with 40 grit on a block only if you lay down way too much. Otherwise all your shaping can be done with 80 Grit on a block. Then finish with 180, always use a block to be even. For your other question. I've found that aerosal primer doesn't always stop rust.
March 7, 2006I've had the same problem with rust bleeding through the primer. My paint manual (Haynes Body Repair and Painting Manual) recommends use of a rust remover which I obtained at Kragen's. Note also that if your down to bare metal there is a special treatment necessary for bare metal using a "conversion" coat reportedly available at an automotive paint supply store. I'm gonna try it as I don't want 80 hours of work to re-rust!!!
March 18, 2006He brings up a good point. If you are going to take your body down to bare metal, there are metal treatments that should be applied. Once you get it down to bare metal, by whatever means, (DA sander, aircraft stripper, whatever) you should wipe it down really well with wax and grease remover. Then spray the area with a self etch primer(metal treatment) this gives your paint something to "bite" to, so to say. Think about it like this, your first layer of paint holds by a mechanical bond, every layer after that is a chemical bond. without your strong mechanical bond, nothing else will hold. after that then you'll lay your primer and sealer (the sealer will "seal" it in, also fights rust) then single stage or base and clear. What kind of primer are you spraying. If it is regular spray can lacquer, then that is why your rust keeps popping through, that stuff doesnt fight rust. keep working